Koh Phi Phi - Let's go to the beach... Part Two

So it’s fair to say that in part one of this blog post about Koh Phi Phi I concluded that it isn’t that bad. It does feel wrong describing a dramatically unique and beautiful island as “not that bad” but such is the effect of mass tourism I suppose.
Well, this post aims to go a bit further. These are the things I loved about Koh Phi Phi. Yeah, I said it. Love. Despite all the reasons not to, I think I loved Koh Phi Phi. 1. There is a typical Thai street market tucked away in the maze of “walking streets”, which comes alive as the sun goes down. If you’re self catering here is where you indulge in fresh fruit, vegetables and fish at fair prices.  2. Multiculturalism is alive and well on Koh Phi Phi thanks to the regular influx of backpackers from all over the globe. As we explored almost every corner of the "Walking Streets" we saw signs for accommodation, diving and food in Spanish, Portuguese, Hebrew, Russian and many more languages we are not accustomed to seeing in other touristy areas of Thailand. With this comes the usual welcomed philosophical graffiti, cross cultural bar chats and mix of international cuisine and a surprisingly vast choice of international cuisine.

3. Take a short, steady walk up to the viewpoint, which promises breathtaking views of the Phi Phi islands. I was really keen to make the journey as I had seen many photographs from this viewpoint, in particular before and after shots of the 2004 tsunami, which ravaged the main hub of the island and took an estimated 4000 lives. Thanks to admirable efforts by both locals and travellers turned volunteers the island is mostly rebuilt and its spirit seems to have recovered though the numerous Tsunami Evacuation Zone signs everywhere are testament that that sad day won’t be forgotten. 

(I sadly didn’t make it up there as NewMan was struck with a very unpleasant case of food poisoning on our last day on the island so instead of enjoying picture postcard views I was mopping my poor boyfriend’s brow and throwing away bags of sick.)
4. When it comes to the Phi Phi Don's sister island, the film star one called Koh Phi Phi Leh, I have to say; don’t hate the island, hate the game. To think I wasn’t going to bother with a trip to Phi Phi Don’s uninhabited sister island because of guidebook and fellow traveller’s advice not to?! I would never have  experienced such breathtaking scenery nor would I have taken these photos, which have even surprised me in terms of how well they capture the colours and the drama of the landscape. The Beach has a lot to answer for but I did not let it ruin my time on Phi Phi Leh. True, if it is 8am or later don’t bother, but hey what’s an early morning when you’re on the doorstep of one of the most iconic islands in the world? It’s not like Phi Phi Don’s nightlife is kicking all night long… Oh. Anyway, set your alarm or stay up for it because jumping on a long-tail boat (book one the night before!) and cruising towards Phi Phi Leh at 7 o’clock in the morning is one early start you won’t regret and the only way you'll see Maya Bay without floods and floods of tourists. I was lucky enough to chance up on a long-tail boat driver with a little English but a big heart as my request to pop over to Maya Bay, turned into a two and a half hour tour of the whole of Phi Phi Leh island, including the breath-taking Pilah lagoon and a stop off at Monkey Bay on Phi Phi Don to feed the monkeys. 5. The final reason I loved Phi Phi was for a sushi restaurant called “Sushi & More”. What can I say? I love sushi and was starting to show signs of withdrawal so stumbling upon this friendly and excellent restaurant was a stroke of luck (and I hasten to add it was NOT the cause of NewMan’s food poisoning).

I don't have a photo of this. We ate it too quickly...

And thus concludes a look at the brighter side of Koh Phi Phi. If you can be open minded about the crowds on Phi Phi Don and set your alarm clock to beat them on Phi Phi Leh you will struggle not to enjoy getting the most out of these unique islands.

Frances M. Thompson

Londoner turned wanderer, Frankie is an author, freelance writer and blogger. Currently based in Amsterdam, Frankie was nomadic for two years before starting a family with her Australian partner. Frankie is the author of three short story collections, and is a freelance writer for travel and creative brands. In 2017, she launched WriteNOW Cards, affirmation cards for writers that help build a productive and positive writing practice. When not writing contemporary fiction, Frankie shops for vintage clothes, dances to 70s disco music and chases her two young sons around Amsterdam.
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